Camping and Kayaking at Porteau Cove

Susannah and I love camping. We also love kayaking. Unfortunately these days we don’t get to do either very often. We had a camping trip planned for Spring but had to cancel at the last minute. Then it was summer and all the campgrounds were booked up. Finally, after the September long weekend, we got the opportunity to go camping for 5 nights at Porteau Cove Provincial Park.

Porteau Cove is our favourite local camping spot. It’s only a 45 minute drive from Vancouver which means if we have to pop back to the city we can. It’s also located at the edge of a Marine Park and has great wildlife viewing.

The Park has 60 sites – 44 drive-in and 16 walk-in. We’ve stayed at several different sites and definitely have our favourites. We were stoked to be able to book one of the best sites in the walk-in campground. We like it because it’s at the end of the campground so only has one neighbour. There’s also an additional area next to the designated site that we can spread out in.

Our little campsite

Surprisingly, the walk-in campground was not busy. Almost every day the entire walk-in area cleared out and we had it to ourselves for a few hours before a few new campers moved in.

An empty campground is rare in BC

Almost to ourselves anyway…

This Stellar Jay was very cheeky

The weather was a mixed bag and while it rained quite a lot, we were treated to some fantastic sunny and even hot periods between storms. We were able to get out on the water quite a bit and paddle around the Coast.

The perspective you get from the water is completely different from the view from the beach and you can feel like you are the only people there.

Kayaking is good for marine mammal watching.

Can you spot the seal?

As well as accessing unknown beaches.

The campground is very long so if you walk from one end to the other you’ll be treated to some great views down Howe Sound and with the ever changing weather it’ll look very different each time. The misty BC look is one of my favourites.

Susannah in her happy place

Once or twice a day a train runs along the adjacent train tracks and it’s super noisy, but apart from that we found our September camping trip to be quite quiet. We spent time exploring, beach combing and watching the world go by.

A rock display left by one beach comber
Looking very Autumnal

There was a film crew working on the water and at the dock which was entertaining to watch. This boat sped in and out delivering people and gear to the set on the water.

Porteau Cove and the view of Anvil Island will always a very special place for us. We hope to visit again soon.

Bear Watching in Prince Rupert

Ok I won’t lie. When we decided to go up North I knew that the bear watching excursion was going to be the highlight of my trip. Coming from New Zealand where there are NO BEARS (actually there are NO predatory animals PERIOD), even the thought of encountering a bear scares the bejeezes out of me. Yet as a photographer I am in awe of them and definitely wanted to see them in their natural environment.

On our trip to Prince Rupert, we were fortunate enough to be hosted by Prince Rupert Adventure Tours for our bear watching excursion. As our awesome B&B was right on the water’s edge, we were able to walk down to the dock after breakfast to check in and board. The vessel is able to accommodate 100 passengers and despite being fully booked, including a large boisterous school group,  I have to say that it did not seem too crowded and everyone was able to get a good viewing spot. Everyone was very accommodating and looked out for each other despite language and age barriers so that was pretty cool.

The Grizzly Bear Tour motors through the Chatham Sound for about 1.5 hours in order to reach the Khutzeymateen Valley, which is not reachable by land. On the way we saw some fantastic scenery and plenty of wildlife to look for. We saw lots of seabirds and a cluster of seals sunning themselves on some rocks.

Great scenery in Chatham Sound BC

Once in the Khutzeymateen area the Captain and crew use binoculars to look out for bears. Patience and complete silence is the key to good viewing as the Captain will pilot the vessel up as close as he/she can without disturbing the animals. The schoolkids turned their volume right down and everyone was very respectful. There were about 3-4 kids who stayed out on deck the entire time, pointing out wildlife and speaking in whispers. Can anyone say “Future Marine Scientists”?

I loved that this was an eco tour and that the impact on the bears was minimal. There was one occasion on our trip where we saw a young bear and approached but the Captain chose to pull away and move on as the bear seemed agitated, perhaps sensing our presence. As much as I wanted some bear shots, I am happy that the correct ethical decision was made for the animal. We remained a reasonable distance from the shore at all times – all of the shots here are taken with a telephoto lens.

We saw several bears and were able to observe them for some time. They were much skinnier than I had imagined they would be. As it was Spring they would have only recently woken from hibernation. Once awake they move down to the coastline to feast on the lush green grasses that grow near the water’s edge, giving them the vitamins and nutrients they need to kick-start their metabolisms.

Check out the claws on this one! Very glad I was on a boat and well off-shore.

To be able to view an animal in nature without negatively impacting on it’s environment is simply awesome! The excursion was, as expected, an amazing highlight of our trip and an adventure that I would totally recommend. It was also a very long day (6 hours) and many of us were dozing inside on the way back to Prince Rupert, myself included. Once we neared the port the Captain and crew had another treat for us. They threw animal fat high into the air at each side of the boat and within minutes we were surrounded by about 30 eagles diving and grabbing the food with their talons. They were fantastic to watch and an exciting end to a great day.


Many thanks to Prince Rupert Adventure Tours for such a wonderful trip. It was awesome. We’ll be back 🙂

So that my bear story, tell me yours!